VENICE - FUN & MUSIC

OPEN - AIR MARKETS


FIND ALL THE FIXINGS FOR VENICE`S SIGNATURE DISHES AT THE CITY`S MARKETS


Cutting-edge restaurants worldwide are catching on to something Venetians have known for 600 years: food tastes better when it`s fresh, seasonal and local. The Pescheria (Fish Market) is any foodie`s first stop in Venice - especially for moscardino (baby octopus), crabs ranging from tiny moeche (soft-shell crabs) to granseole (spider crabs), and seppie (squid) of all sizes.

 
VENICE FISH & FRUITS MARKET 

Compared to the tame specimens you`d find at your average supermarket, the indigenous Veneto fare at the Rialto produce markets and on canalside stalls looks like it just landed from another planet. Tiny purplish castraure (baby artichokes) could be shrunken alien heads, white Bassano asparagus is eerily spectral and red radicchio di Treviso looks like a mutant flower from Mars. Even familiar food goes wild here: suggestively shaped tomatoes and red capsicum seem very fresh indeed, and those saucy little strawberries could make grown men cry. ALISON BING

 
OPEN - AIR MARKET RIALTO VENEZIA

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Highlights - Open-air markets. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 14.pg.

PESCHERIA (Self-Catering) Google map:

Slinging fresh fish daily for 700 years and still going strong, the fishmongers here are more vital to Venetian cuisine than any chef. Ask how and where a seafood delicacy was caught, and you`ll get an earful about recent shifts in Adriatic aquaculture. Sustainable fishing is not new here: marble plaques show regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for various types of fish. Rialto (vaporetto station), Rialto (bridge) ALISON BING



                                             PESCHERIA

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 94.pg.

RIALTO PRODUCE MARKETS (Self-Catering) Google map:

Getting your daily servings of fruit and veg is easy here - you`ll be tempted by tantalising teetering pyramids of colourful produce. Salad cravings are a given when you`re surrounded by juicy tomatoes, aromatic greens and, in season, tender castraure (baby artichokes). Vendors are used to visitors looking and photographing rather than buying, but if you`re in the market for picnic makings they might offer you samples. Rialto (vaporetto station), Rialto (bridge) ALISON BING

                                   RIALTO OPEN - AIR MARKETS
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 94. - 95.pg.  

DIY DINNERS: SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED


When nothing on the menu seems to hit the mark, you can always assemble a meal to your liking in Venice`s markets. If you missed the Rialto produce markets in full swing in the morning, stop by the floating farmers market (Campo San Barnaba, Dorsoduro), docked alongside Campo San Barnaba. A warning, though: the produce-barge vendor is a grumpy character who sometimes insist on 500 g minimum purchases, knowing you won`t be able to resist those piles of tomatoes and blood oranges. Nearby is the Dorsoduro produce market (Campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro), where during the week you`ll spot vegetable and fruit stalls, and a small, cheerful fish market oozing squid ink onto the flagstones. If takeaway is more your style, head for the deli counter and bakery at Coop, or to Pronto Pesce Pronto (opposite) for seafood dishes to go. For something to wash it all down, bring your empty water bottle and fill `er up straight from the barrel at Nave d`Oro, the wine dispensary with locations in Cannaregio, Castello and Dorsoduro.
Now the question is `Where to eat?` Picnicking in Venetian piazzas and calli (streets) is forbidden, but you can head to the beaches on the Lido, the gardens at the Biennale pavilions, the courtyard at your B&B or hostel, or your hotel balcony overlooking the Grand Canal (lucky you) for lunch with a Venetian view. ALISON BING
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 95.pg.


                     PLAY IN VENICE



LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA


GLIMPSE THE FUTURE AT LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA

  
Seems like every dreary German city holds a contemporary-art biennale these days - but when connoisseurs talk about the Biennale, they still mean Venice. Started in 1895 to provide an essential corrective to the brutality of the Industrial Revolution and to reassert Venice`s role as global tastemaker, the Biennale was initially a conservative institution. A grand garden pavilion provided a studiously inoffensive take on Italy`s latest artistic achievements - principally lovely ladies, pretty flowers and lovely ladies wearing pretty flowers. Other nations were granted pavilions in 1907, but the Biennale foundation still retained strict control, even removing a Picasso from the Spanish Pavilion in 1910 so as not to shock the public with modernity.

                                     LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA

Then one world war after another erupted, making such delicacy seem terribly antiquated. The post-WWI Biennale boldly exhibited works by Amedeo Modigliani, whose abstract blank-eyed women were hotly debated. Venice wasn`t instantly convinced by modernism, but it did discover an appetite for artistic controversy, as new pavilions for Korea, Japan and Canada highlighted avant-garde art and architecture. While many Venetians mock the Biennale`s rather pretentious recent motto Pensa con i Sensi/Senti con la Mente (Think with the Senses/Feel with the Mind), the Biennale`s autumn showcases for avant-garde architecture (in even-numbered years) and art (odd-numbered years) are eagerly anticipated. ALISON BING

                                     LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Highlights - La Biennale di Venezia. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 17.pg.


VENICE FILM FESTIVAL

WATCH THE STARS ALIGN AT THE VENICE FILM FESTIVAL


When the Venice Biennale announced its first film showcase in 1932, the scandal threatened to sink Venice. `What kind of a city would risk its reputation on popular entertainment?` sniffed Cannes, New York and Telluride. The Oscars were still being held in the Fiesta Room at Hollywood`s Ambassador Hotel (seating capacity: 900), so no one imagined that the far-flung Lido would be swamped with filmgoers. But once Joan Crawford and Clark Gable hit the red carpet, and 25 000 people showed up for screenings, the festival and its Golden Lion awards proved to be a winning formula of art and celebrity.
Never an indie-film showcase, the Venice Film Festival has gained a reputation as the film festival that rewards directors who should have won Oscars on sheer creative merit. Directors featured at Venice include David Fincher (Fight Club), Spike Jonze (Being John Malkovich), Antoine Fuqua (Training Day) and Ang Lee (Brokeback Mountain), as well as perennial favourites Woody Allen, Takeshi Kitano, Martin Scorsese and Zhang Yimou. ALISON BING


                                    VENICE FILM FESTIVAL

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Highlights - Venice Film festival. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 18.pg.


NIGHT AT THE OPERA

GET A PERFORMANCE HIGH AT TEATRO LA FENICE

No matter what`s on the bill at Teatro La Fenice, there`s bound to be drama. Before the doors open, the buzz begins at cafes around the piazza, where tousled artistes and coiffed socialites gather to toss back prosecco with an espresso chaser. Once the crowd heads inside the theatre, wraps are shed in lower-tier boxes to reveal jewels and Murano-glass baubles, while in the cheap seats of the top-tier loggie (balconies), the loggione (opera critics) predict which singers will be in good voice and which understudies may be due for a promotion. 





La Fenice Opera House - a theatre a story

Architecture aficionados find other subjects to argue about - namely whether the historically accurate reconstruction after the 1996 fire was worth € 90 million, or whether the baroque `inverted-wedding-cake` style should have been modernised by arhitect Gae Aulenti as originally planned. But when the overture begins, all voices hush and the air turns electric with anticipation. No one wants to miss a note of a performance that could compare with historic premieres by Stravinsky, Rossini, Prokofiev, Britten and, of course, Giuseppe Verdi. ALISON BING 


 
Inno di Mameli - Notte del Tricolore -Teatro La Fenice - Venezia 16 marzo 2011
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Highlights - Night at the Opera. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 20.pg.


MUSIC & OPERA


Over the centuries, Venetian musicians developed a reputation for playing music as though their lives depended on it - which at times wasn`t that far from the truth. In its heyday, Venice had official musicians and distinct party music, but it was only when it fell on hard times in the 17th and 18th centuries that it really discovered its musical talents. With shrinking trade revenues, the state took the rather quixotic step of underwriting the musical education of orphan girls, and the investment yielded extraordinary returns. Visitors to the city spread word of superb performances by the girls, and Venice`s reputation for music made it a magnet for socialites.

 
E.W.Korngold - Die Tote Stadt - Teatro La Fenice Venezia

Today`s televised talent searches can`t compare to Venice`s ability to discover musical talents, including Claudio Monteverdi, who was named the musical director of the Basilica di San Marco and went on to launch modern opera. Similarly, one of the maestri hired to conduct the orphan-girl orchestras was Antonio Vivaldi, who in the course of his 30-year tenure wrote hundreds of concertos and popularised Venetian music across Europe.
Modern visitors to Venice can still see music performed in much the same venues as it was in Vivaldi`s day - palazzi, churches and ospedaletti (orphanages). But rather than playing classical music or opera as period pieces, Venice`s leading interpreters perform with verve and wit, keeping up their end of a musical conversation that began centuries ago. ALISON BING

Teatro La Fenice - Sinfonia dal 'Don Pasquale' di Gaetano Donizetti‬ 


BEST PERFORMANCES & VENUES:
  1. Teatro La Fenice
  2. Interpreti Veneziani at Scuola Grande di San Rocco
  3. Jazz in Venice in Prigioni Nuove
  4. Musica a Palazzo in Palazzo Barbarigo-Minotto
  5. Venice Chamber Music Orchestra at Ca` Rezzonico


BEST MUSICAL MEMENTOS:
  1. CDs and music - apprecation books from Mondadori
  2. Harmonicas and lutes from Mille e Una Nota
  3. Clothes based on costumes worn by La Fenice divas from Banco 10
  4. CDs from Parole e Musica
  5. Vivaldi biographies from Libreria Studium
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Snapshots - Music & Opera. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 159.pg.


TEATRO SAN GALLO   Google map:

THE SHOW THAT TELLS THE GREAT STORY OF VENICE. DISCOVER THE CITY BEHIND THE MASK

The theatre is known through Venice for its entertaining show that celebrates "The Great Story Venice". With "GREAT ACTING" from the live cast on stage and its "STUNNING SURROUND PROJECTIONS AND SOUND", VENEZIA the show, is unique theatrical event.
With an international cast this entertaining, unique, dynamic live theatre show, brings the drama, traditions, history and a few of the scandals of the great city of Venice alive.

 
Venezia The Show - Teatro San Gallo 
 
TICKET 041 241 2002
Single tickets € 39
Seniors € 30
Students and Imob cards € 25
Family discount available.
Children under ten free.
Larg groups ask box office
Dinner and show packages ask at hotel or box office.

WWW.TEATROSANGALO.NET

ALSO AT THEATRO SAN GALO:

 
Venezia The Show


VENICE HISTORY FILM

Every day at the theatre at 12am & 6pm (and 7pm summer). A half hour documentary based on the BBC series "Francesco`s Venice". It`s an amazing film that puts the spectacular beauty of this great city in its historical context. The film is in english with audio guides in italian, russian and spanish. At € 6 it is s great introduction to the city.

VENETIAN MASK EXHIBITION

Teatro San Gallo has a FREE exhibition of Commedia dell`Arte masks. It explains the background and the origins of the masks of this great Venetian tradition. With hand made examples of each mask on display it`s a truly fascinating look at a great art form


THEATRO SAN GALO

THE SHOP

The theatre has a gift and a bookshop that is open from 10:00am until 9:00pm every day. In its Venetian style interior there are gifts and books that reflect the history and arts of the region and the atmosphere of Italy.



PLAY IN SAN MARCO:


AURORA CAFFE (Cultural Events, Live Music) Google map:


By day it blends in with the other cafes on the piazza, doling out pricey cappuccinos to the tourist trade - but after 8pm this plucky little venue is almost single-handedly responsible for signs of life on Piazza San Marco. Sunday nights pull in crowds with local musicians, exhibitions of emerging artists and € 2 drinks between 9pm and 10pm. On Thursday nights, photography and video-art events draw Venetians out of their garrets to flirt and discuss the meaning of life. San Marco, Vallaresso (vaporetto station),  Piazza San Marco 48 - 50 (square)  ALISON BING

 
Bellini dj - Aurora Venezia 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 56.pg.

CAFFE FLORIAN (Classical Music, Jazz) Google map:

Tango, anyone? Without the daily accompaniment of the Caffe Florian house orchestra, the sun might not be allowed to set in Venice. Florian mostly sticks to rituals established in 1720 - unctuously charming uniformed waiters, gooey hot chocolate served on a silver tray, lovers canoodling on plush banquettes indoors - but has updated its musical repertoire to about 1950 to include jazz and Latin numbers. Since that hot chocolate will cost you € 10 (with a € 6 surcharge for piazza seating), you may as well stick around for the sunset grand finale, when the fading light  illuminates the Basilica di San Marco`s portal mosaics. It`s an unforgettable experience - except for the bathrooms, which are cramped and grey. You`ll be expected to leave a tip for the surly signora handing out towels. San Marco, Vallaresso (vaporetto station),  Piazza San Marco 56 - 59 (square)  ALISON BING


 
VENEZIA, CAFFE FLORIAN ORCHESTRA PIAZZA SAN MARCO
 
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 56.pg.

CENTRALE (DJs, Live Music) Google map:

The optional bodyguard service may seem a bit much but, with its nocturnal instincts and low-key cool, Centrale is Venice`s VIP magnet. Within these exposed-brick walls you might spot Juliette Binoche, Spike Lee and sundry Italian moguls, all moodily lit by Murano chandeliers. Meal prices are high, but Centrale draws late-night crowds for drinks, snacks, chill-out DJ sets and occasional live music. San Marco, Vallaresso (vaporetto station),  Piscina Frezzeria 1659b (street)  ALISON BING

CENTRALE 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 56.pg.

MUSICA A PALAZZO (Opera) Google map:

In these intimate settings, the soprano`s high notes might make you fear for your wineglass, and the thundering baritone is felt in the base of your spine. The 1,5-hour show feels more like a decadent baroque party than a performance, with 70 guests - wineglasses in tow - following opera singers and orchestra from receiving room to salon to private quarters. The singers are in modern dress, but instead of appearing theatrical or anachronistic, they seem to be pouring their hearts out, pleading their cases with Verdi and drawing you into their Rossini intrigues. Santa Maria del Giglio (vaporetto station),  Palazzo Barbarigo-Minotto, Fondamenta Duodo o Barbarigo 2504 (street)  ALISON BING

                                              Musica a Palazzo 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 56. - 57.pg.

TEATRO LA FENICE  (Classical Music, Opera) Google map:

International opera reputations are still made and lost on this postage stamp of a stage, just as they have been for centuries, despite two fires and countless backstage intrigues. La Fenice (the Phoenix) has risen from the ashes of a 1996 arson, and the grand new theatre remains true to the baroque blueprints of 1836. The stage is encircled by box seating dripping with gold and decorated with sweet-faced babies rather precociously weaving garlands and playing musical instruments.
Tours (adult/student € 7/5)  are possible with advance booking by phone, but the best way to see La Fenice is with the loggione, opera buffs that pass judgment on productions from on high in the top-tier cheap seats. In between performances and in the opera off season, symphonies and chamber-music concerts are irresistible draws at La Fenice. Santa Maria del Giglio (vaporetto station),  Campo San Fantin 1965 (square)  ALISON BING

 
Capodanno 2012 Giuseppe Verdi - Va pensiero sull'ali dorate

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 57.pg.


PLAY IN CASTELLO:


JAZZ IN VENICE (Jazz) Google map:


Miles Davis` `All Blues` takes on a whole new meaning when you`re hearing the jazz standard in a jail cell. Offenders brought here in shackles a few centuries back might not have been in a position to appreciate the great acoustics, but concertgoers willingly make return visits to hear the bass boom off the vaulted ceilings and to take in moody piano solos that would be lost in a bar. San Zaccaria (vaporetto station),  Prigioni Nuove (street) ALISON BING

JAZZ IN VENICE
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 69.pg.


PLAY IN CANNAREGIO:


BOTTEGA DEL TINTORETTO (Course) Google map:

Walking the canals of Cannaregio, you`re bound to feel an aquatint coming on - and Roberto Mazzetto can show you how to get that out of your system and onto paper. He runs intensive workshops and five-day summer courses in etching and other forms of printmaking, art and design from the bottega (workshop) that was once Tintoretto`s studio - not a bad pedigree to bring to your next art project. Rialto (vaporetto station), Fondamenta dei Mori 3400 (street) ALISON BING

 
Bottega Tintoretto Venice

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Cannaregio. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 81.pg.

CASINO DI VENEZIA (Casino) Google map:

Daily dramas at the casino are worthy of their own opera at La Fenice, and that`s the way it`s been since Venice got the gambling bug in the 16th-century. Composer Richard Wagner survived the 20-year effort of writing his stormy Ring cycle only to die at the casino in 1883. Jackets are required and strong constitutions advisable if you want to take on the tables here - the high stakes are not for the faint of heart. San Marcuola (vaporetto station), Campiello Vendramin 2040 (street) ALISON BING
 

 
Casinò di Venezia
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Cannaregio. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 81.pg.
 
CINEMA GIORGIONE MOVIE D`ESSAI (Cinema) Google map:

This two-screen cinema has a Cinema Paradiso feel about it - it`s the only cinema in Venice proper, and audiences arrive en masse, primed for entertainment. Spoiler alert: there`s an audible buzz of anticipation around any movie with a good review, so if you understand Italian you may hear the ending while waiting to buy tickets. Ca`d`Oro (vaporetto station), Rio Tera di Franceschi 4612 (street) ALISON BING

CINEMA GIORGIONE MOVIE D`ESSAI
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Cannaregio. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 81.pg.
                                           
PARADISO PERDUTO (Live Music) Google map:

Long tables may make this joint look like a union hall, but it`s the right set-up for grog among new friends and for live-music acts that have been known to dissolve into audience-participation jam sessions. Skip the unexceptional food and hit outdoor tables in summer for conversation you can actually hear. Madonna dell`Orto (vaporetto station), Fondamenta della Misericordia 2540 (street) ALISON BING

 
Jazz at Paradiso Perduto, Venezia 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Cannaregio. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 81.pg.


PLAY IN SAN POLO:


INTERPRETI VENEZIANI (Classical Music) Google map:

Everything you knew of Vivaldi from elevators and telephone hold music turns out to be fantastically wrong. Interpreti Veneziani play Vivaldi as a soundtrack for this city of intrigue, and you`ll never listen to The Four Season again without hearing summer storms gathering over the lagoon and the echo of hurried footsteps over bridges in a winter`s night intrigue. Soloists strike resonating chords and pull startling vibrations from original 18th-century instruments, adding new urgency to classical music. Some rare spliced gene is the only way to explain the talents and showmanship of the Amadio family, three of whom are part of the ensemble, which performs Vivaldi nightly in the Scuola Grande di San Rocco as though it was experiencing. San Toma (vaporetto station), Scuola Grande di San Rocco 3052 (street) ALISON BING


         N. Paganini "Polacca" - Interpreti Veneziani (Davide Amadio)

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 97.pg.

SUMMER ARENA (Cinema, Theatre) Google map:

In summer ancient Campo San Polo becomes the forward-thinking Summer Arena, with free open-air cinema, concerts and theatre performances. This space is wide open to ideas year-round, however, so watch out for political rallies and impromptu rave sessions. San Toma (vaporetto station), Campo San Polo (square) ALISON BING

SUMMER ARENA SAN POLO
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 97.pg.


DAVIDE AMADIO
Interpreti Veneziani cellist with a rock-star following

Fish and art on Giudecca. Acouple of decades ago, Giudecca was mostly fishermen. Now you can find art shows, theatre, musicians - and still plently of fish.
How baroque is like punk. Baroque composers experienced all the same emotions we do now - fear, passion, violence - back when people lived short, intense lives. We can play politely, or we can be true to the spirit of their work.

 
Vivaldi cello concert rv 407 in D minor Interpreti Veneziani-Davide Amadio 

Jamming on a 1787 cello. This instrument was made for Venetian churches, with their perfect humidity and generous acoustic. When we travel, the wood dries and contracts, and I have to adjust how I play to get the right sound.
Soundtrack to Tintoretto. It`s a tremendous privilege and challenge to play among Tintoretto`s masterpieces at Scuola Grande di San Rocco - we`re surrounded by giants. Because Tintoretto is so captivating, you have to work harder to bring people back to the present moment. But that`s always true in Venice, right? ALISON BING

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Giudecca. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 129.pg.


PLAY IN SANTA CROCE:


AI POSTALI (Live Music) Google map:

You won`t find the live music here on any event calendar - it`s completely spontaneous. Jazz usually plays on the stereo until 10pm or so, when local musicians converge on the marble bar for spritz (prosecco-based cocktail) served with an olive. By last call, jam sessions have often erupted. This is about the only place in Venice that gets away with a cityscape fresco without seeming touristy, simply because the home-town pride here isn`t for show, it`s the real deal.  Rivo di Biasio (vaporetto station), Fondamenta Rio Marin 421 (street) ALISON BING

AI POSTALI
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Santa Croce. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 107.pg.


PLAY IN DORSODURO:


VENICE JAZZ CLUB (Jazz) Google map:

This place is suspiciously well-organized for a jazz club, but the Venice Jazz Club Quartet keeps the vibe loose with improvisational tributes to jazz greats such as Miles Davis and Chet Baker. Drinks here are steep, so most locals start on the good stuff with the drink that comes free with admission, then backslide from there. Music starts at 9pm. Ca` Rezzonico (vaporetto station), Ponte dei Pugni 3102 (street) ALISON BING
 

                                                   Venice Jazz Club

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 123.pg.


PLAY IN GIUDECCA:


CASANOVA SPA (Spa) Google map:

The notorious hedonist who hid out on Giudecca has inspired some decadent spa services, ranging from baroque hand treatments with rejuvenating Venetian damask rose (€ 100) to antioxidising gold facials (€ 150 to € 200) where your skin is layered with detoxifying gold leaf. Zitelle (vaporetto station), Hotel Cipriani 10 (street) ALISON BING

CASANOVA SPA

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Giudecca. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 131.pg.

TEATRO JUNGHANS (Course, Theatre) Google map:

Wow Carnevale crowds with your unique costume and convincing portrayal of Venetian nobility, courtesy of Teatro Junghans` workshops on costume design in August, mask-acting in July and September, and commedia dell`arte in August and September. If you`d rather leave that sort of thing to the professionals, check the online calendar for the performance schedule. Redentore (vaporetto station), Piazza Junghans (square) ALISON BING

TEATRO JUNGHANS
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Giudecca. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 131.pg.


PLAY ON LIDO:


AURORA BEACH CLUB (Beach Club, DJs) Google map:

After a long day relaxing and unwinding on a lounger, there`s nothing better than relaxing and unwinding on a carved four-poster beach bed. Days flow into nights at this venue, aided by diversions such as free books and magazines, beach-sport and chill-out zones, live-music sets, cocktail bars, an open-air cinema and DJ sets that will keep you on the dance floor until you face plant on the sofa. Lido (vaporetto station), Lungomare Gabriele D`Annunzio 20x (street) ALISON BING

AURORA BEACH CLUB

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Lido. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 137.pg.
MULTISALA ASTRA (Cinema) Google map:

When you start feeling the burn on the beach, catch a show at this dark, air-conditioned cinema instead. The program is planned by the Venice municipal film commission, which makes sure there are art-house options alongside blockbusters. Lido (vaporetto station), Via Corfu 9 (street) ALISON BING

MULTISALA ASTRA 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Lido. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 137.pg.
ULTIMA SPIAGGIA DI PACHUKA (Beach Club, DJs

This place has all the sand of the Lido and all the laid-back boardwalk attitude of the Zattere, plus beer, pizza, and space for emerging artists among the beach umbrellas. Live music starts at 10pm on Fridays, while disco hits the beach with DJ sets on Saturdays. San Nicolo (vaporetto station), Viale V Klinger, Spiaggia San Nicolo (street) ALISON BING

ULTIMA SPIAGGIA DI PACHUKA
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Lido. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 137.pg.



                    SHOPPING IN VENICE



SHOPPING


Churches and museums are all well and good, but who are we kidding? In Italy anyone with the faintest retail inclination is going to wind up in a store eventually. That doesn`t mean you have to end up with one of those glittered porcelain-mask magnets or a striped gondolier shirt (though, hey, those can be quite hip out of context). In Venice you can find gifts by local artisans that truly are one of a kind; the odds of a workmate showing up to the Christmas party in the same locally designed Fortuny frock or Fiorella smoking jacket are infinitesimal.

 
SHOPPING IN VENICE

Mall shopping just can`t compare to treasure hunting in Venice. Sure, there are the standard Italian designer brands along Via Larga XXII Marzo and Calle dei Fabbri in San Marco, but the rarest finds and sweetest deals await across the Grand Canal in the backstreet boutiques of San Polo and Dorsoduro. Open-air markets reveal hidden gems - exquisite enamelled lockets or an actual pirate`s pipe - and at fair-trade boutiques your sunhat purchase supports a worthy cause. Depending on your country`s customs regulations, Venetian edibles and wines make tasteful souvenirs. ALISON BING

                                      SHOPPING IN VENICE


BEST FOR FASHION:
  1. Fiorella Gallery
  2. Maliparmi
  3. Penny Lane Vintage
  4. Venetia Studium
  5. Hibiscus

BEST FEEL-GOOD RETAIL:
  1. Banco 10
  2. Venice`s artisans
  3. Le Botteghe
  4. Acqua Altra
  5. Mercato delle pulci

BEST ART & ANTIQUES:
  1. Caterina Tognon Arte
  2. Antichita Teresa Ballarin
  3. Galleria Tragheto
  4. Campiello Ca` Zen
  5. Mercantino dei Miracoli

BEST HOMEWARES:
  1. Madera
  2. NasonMoretti
  3. Fortuny Tessuti Artistici
  4. Sabbie e Nebbie
  5. Epicentro
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Snapshots - Shopping. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 160.pg.



SHOPPING IN SAN MARCO:


ARCOBALENO (Art Supplies) Google map:

After umpteen Venetian art masterpieces, anyone`s fingers will start twitching for a paintbrush. With its shelves stocked with jars of all the essential pigments - Titian red, Tiepolo sky blue, Veronese rose and Tintoretto teal - Arcobelano provides all the raw materials needed to start your own Venetian art movement. Accademia (vaporetto station), Calle delle Botteghe 3457 (street) ALISON BING


ARCOBALENO

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 48.pg.

EPICENTRO (Gift, Homewares) Google map:

How could you possibly survive without that Alessi-designed soy-sauce decanter shaped like a hummingbird?  Epicentro provides every designer household item you never knew you needed, plus the entire Alessi back catalogue of monkey-shaped sugar bowls and toothbrush-hugging trolls, all crammed into one delightful little storefront. Vallaresso (vaporetto station), Calle dei Fabbri 932 (street)  ALISON BING

EPICENTRO

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 48.pg. 
 
FIORELLA GALLERY (Fashion) Google map:

At Fiorella, high-heeled doge mannequins show off subversive Venetian fashions hell-bent on bringing out your inner rock star. Smoking jackets are made of crushed silk velvets in louche shades of lavender and blood red, and are then printed by hand with baroque wallpaper patterns and a Fiorella signature:wide-eyed rats. Prices start in the hundreds of euros, but check out your reflection in the graffitied Ettore Sottsass mirror and tell us you`re not impressed. Accademia  (vaporetto station),  Campo Santo Stefano 2806 (street) ALISON BING

 
Fiorella Gallery Venice 

  
Fiorella Gallery 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 48. - 49.pg.

GLORIA ASTOLFO (Jewellery) Google map:

Chandelier earrings straight out of a Venetian painting and collars of cascading pearls that would blend in with the baroque decor at La Fenice take handcrafted beadwork jewellery to the next level - but prices starting at € 35 are surprisingly down to earth, especially this close to San Marco. Vallaresso (vaporetto station),  Calle Frezzeria 1581 (street)  ALISON BING

GLORIA ASTOLFO

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 49.pg.
 
LE BOTTEGHE (Gifts, Sustainable Shopping) Google map:

Italian design meets global awareness at this fair-trade boutique on the steps of the Rialto. Sleek foldable straw hats made by a Bangladeshi collective in rich shades of saffron and fuchsia are just right for gondola rides, while African beaded clutches practically demand a date at La Fenice. Rialto (vaporetto station),  Ponte di Rialto 5164 (street) ALISON BING

LE BOTTEGHE 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 49.pg.

LEGATORIA PIAZZESI (Paper Crafts) Google map:

This is the most eccentric shop in Venice - and that`s saying something. A specialist in hand-stamped and marbled paper since 1851, this historic stationer sells photo albums, travel journals and book stands made from paper, and offers some esoteric add-on services, such as handwriting analysis and character readings. It opens when it likes, making every purchase seem somehow fated. Ask about paper-making classes and phrenology sessions. Santa Maria del Giglio (vaporetto station), Campiello Feltrina 2511c (street) ALISON BING

LEGATORIA PIAZZESI 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 49.pg.

LIBRERIA STUDIUM (Books)

This place has floor-to-ceiling holiday reads, including a large selection of literature in English that extends well beyond pulpy bestsellers, a section on Italian cuisine ranging from mouth-watering coffee-table books to scholarly tracts. The book-loving staff can pluck obscure titles from high shelves for you with instant recall. San Zaccaria (vaporetto station),  Calle Canonica  337 (street) ALISON BING

LIBRERIA STUDIUM 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 50.pg.

MA. RE (Glass) Google map:

To appreciate the range of contemporary glass-designer talent on Murano without actually going there, check out this splashy showroom. Blown, etched, clear and boldly coloured: there`s nothing these local designers won`t do to turn glass into high-modernist object. The limited-edition etched wineglasses by Salviati (€ 45 each) are the kind of glasses that are trotted out only for honoured guests who never gesture wildly while drinking. Santa Maria del Giglio (vaporetto station), Via Larga XXII Marzo 2088 (street) ALISON BING

 
Ma.Re Glass

  •  literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 50.pg.
  
MALIPARMI (Fashion) 
 
This is smart, breezy chic that`s just right for urban islanders from Manhattan to Venice. Specialising in luxe looks with surprisingly uncouture price tags, this Padus-based designer has cuts that drape just so, fabrics that feel good to the touch, and an upscale-playful colour sensibility that brings to mind Missoni and Miu Miu. Santa Maria del Giglio (vaporetto station),  Calle Teatro Goldoni 4600a (street)  ALISON BING

MALIPARMI 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 50.pg.

MICROMEGA OTTICA (Eyeglasses) Google map:

Frames by this eyewear designer are made of natural materials - horn, gold wire, a twig stripped of its bark - and constructed without hinges or stress points for durability and comfort. Lenses are laser cut into simple shapes or free-form designs, including leaf-shaped lenses. This is sculpture for your face, and it`s priced accordingly: glasses are € 600 and up. Santa Maria del Giglio (vaporetto station),  Campo di Santa Maria del Giglio 2436 (street) ALISON BING

MICROMEGA OTTICA 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 50.pg.

MILLEVINI (Wine) Google map:

This wine-cave-cum-industrial-warehouse has small-producer labels and Venetian vintages, adding a touch of class amid the Rialto T-shirt kiosks and kitschy cafes. Well-versed staff help you choose from bottles lit like offerings to the gods, and will give you the inside scoop on upcoming wine tasting. Rialto (vaporetto station),  Ramo del Fontego dei Turchi 5362 (street) ALISON BING

MILLEVINI 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 50. - 51.pg.

MONDADORI (Books, Music) Google map:

Come for the books and music, stay for the architecture, boozing and schmoozing. The selection of CDs, mags, DVDs and novels in this Italian chain is plenty engrossing, but even precision-target shoppers will linger in the glassed-in-converted cinema, which also houses Bacaro, and hosts literary events and photography shows. Vallaresso (vaporetto station),  Salizada San Moise 1345 (street)  ALISON BING

MONDADORI 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 51.pg.

OTTICA CARRARO (Eyeglasses) Google map:

Lost your sunglasses on the Lido? Never fear: Ottico Carraro can make you a custom pair within 24 hours. Styles range from flashy 1980s-style shades to arty matterubber frames that look like they were crafted from gumdrops. Sant`Angelo (vaporetto station),  Calle della Mandola 3706 (street) ALISON BING

OTTICA CARRARO 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 51.pg.

VENETIA STUDIUM (Fashion, Homewares) Google map:

Get that `just got in from Monaco for my art opening` look beloved of bohemians who marry well. The high-drama Delphos tunic dresses make anyone look like a high-maintenance modern dancer or art collector (Isadora Duncan and Peggy Guggenheim were both fans), while the hand-stamped silk-velvet bags (prices start at € 50) are more arty than ostentatious. Santa Maria del Giglio (vaporetto station),  Palazzo Zuccato, Via Larga XXII Marzo 2425 (street)  ALISON BING

VENETIA STUDIUM
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 51.pg.



SHOPPING IN CASTELLO:


ARTE VETRO MURANO (Glass

Shatter glass conventions with new styles by emerging Murano glass designers: Davide Penso makes a necklace of flat puddles of orange glass that have a molten-lava look about them, while Artematte`s deliberately mismatched lampwork glass earrings will earn you double takes at Biennale art openings. San Zaccaria (vaporetto), Calle della Rasse 4613 (street) ALISON BING

ARTE VETRO MURANO

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 65.pg.
 
BANCO 10  (Fashion, Sustainable Shopping) 

Prison orange is so over. All the swirly skirts, sleek jackets, tapestry handbags and diva dresses in this nonprofit boutique are made as part of a retraining program at the women`s prison on Giudecca, funding their continuing career training and reintegration into society after release. Sumptuous silks, velvets and tapestry are donated by Fortuny and Bevilacqua, designs are created by female inmates, and volunteers sell them in this truly inspired boutique. Even La Fenice has dressed its divas in costumes made through the program. San Zaccaria (vaporetto),  Salizada Sant`Antonio 3478a (street) ALISON BING

BANCO 10 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 65.pg.

GIOVANNA ZANELLA (Shoes) Google map:


Woven, sculpted, and crested like birds, Zanella`s shoes practically demand that red carpets unfurl before you. The Venetian designer custom-makes the shoes, so the answer is always, `Yes, you can get those peep-toe numbers in yellow and grey, size 12, extra narrow.` It`ll cost you of course, but at least you won`t be upstaged by Angelina Jolie in the same pair at the Venice Film Festival. Rialto (vaporetto station),  Calle Carminati 5641 (street) ALISON BING

GIOVANNA ZANELLA 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 65.pg.

METROPOLI SCARPE (Shoes) 


You knew there had to be a designer shoe outlet in Venice. Colours are loud and styles aren`t shy - think yellow patent-leather flats with pilgrim buckles, or powder-pink wrestling boots - but, with prices from € 39 to € 59, budget-minded fashionistas can afford to take style risks. Rialto (vaporetto station), Calle Scaletta 4946 (street) ALISON BING

METROPOLI SCARPE 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 65.pg.

PAROLE E MUSICA (Music) Google map:

Head to this store to take Venice`s music home with you. Specialising in Italian pop, classical and opera, it has new Italian recordings and European indie labels that are hard to find elsewhere. Rialto (vaporetto station),  Salizada San Lio 5673 (street) ALISON BING

PAROLE E MUSICA

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 65. - 66.pg.


SCHEGGE (Masks) 


Go incognito in style with this shop`s highly original masquerade masks, which are inspired by influences as diverse as Gothic architecture and the paintings of Amadeo Modigliani. Well into the night, you`ll find this dedicated mother-daughter team wielding tiny paintbrushes, coaxing minute baroque tendrils into bloom along the side of a mask. Rialto (vaporetto station) Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa 6185 (street) ALISON BING

SCHEGGE 
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 66.pg.


SIGFRIDO CIPOLATO (Jewellery) 


The window display here looks like a baroque jewel box: chandelier earrings ending in tiny gold skulls, Faberge-incised enamel rings with emeralds, free-form pearls set in diamonds. Though they may look like heirlooms, these small wonders were created by jeweller Sigfrido, who uses techniques handed down through generations. San Zaccaria (vaporetto station),  San Lio Caselleria 5336 (street) ALISON BING

SIGFRIDO CIPOLATO


  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 66.pg.



SHOPPING IN CANNAREGIO:


LUNA (Fashion)


A pebble-print wrap dress, a brown silk shift with matching belt, and a halter dress with a peekaboo neckline may suit different personalities, but they have two things in common: like all of the clothes at Luna, they`re designed and made in Italy, and prices are less than what you`d expect for the quality. Rialto (vaporetto station), Salizada San Canzian 5917 (street) ALISON BING


 
Luna Backlight

                                  Trucco Maschera Di Venezia
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Cannaregio. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 75.pg.
 
SOLARIS (Books) Google map:


The plot thickens at Venice`s landmark bookstore for comics, mysteries and science fiction. The tiny store is packed with DVDs, books and periodicals, with a back wall that`s one big curved bookcase. There`s an entire section just for Corto Maltese, the graphic novels by Italian comics master Hugo Pratt, the most famous of which are set in Venice. San Marcuola (vaporetto station), Rio Tera de la Maddelena 2332 (street) ALISON BING

SOLARIS
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Cannaregio. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 75.pg.




SHOPPING IN SAN POLO:


ATTOMBRI (Jewellery) 

Dolce&Gabbana models recently worked Attombri designs on Milan catwalks; now you too can strut the Rialto in this dramatic, handcrafted jewellery. Stefano and Daniele Attombri bend wire into waves, which then curl around the wrist with lagoon green beads, or grace the collarbone with red-beaded starfish. Prices start at around € 40, making these accessories a steal compared to a D&G tee.Rialto (vaporetto station), Sotoportego Orafi 74 (street) ALISON BING

ATTOMBRI


  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 86. - 87.pg.

BOTTEGA DEGLI ANGELI (Ceramics) Google map:

Huge vases, smallish tiles, tiny pendants: there`s something to suit every taste and carry-on limit here. The work of the three resident ceramists ranges from stark, dramaticshapes to abstract stained-glass patterns and even whimsical fish, but the signature is a bright red glaze that (as any ceramist will tell you) is quite difficult to achieve. Wish you could do that? Try your hand at the pottery wheel at upcoming workshops and classes. Rialto (vaporetto station), Calle del Cristo 2224 (street) ALISON BING 

BOTTEGA DEGLI ANGELI 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 87.pg.
  •  
     
CAMPIELLO CA` ZEN (Antiques) Google map:

An antique glass lamp would be the last thing you`d want to cram in your luggage - or so you thought before you saw the 1940s Salviati silvery bluebell chandelier and the ultramod Scarpa table lamps. That fabulous hand-blown chalice seems downright practical by comparison. But here`s a dangerous thought: Campiello Ca` Zen ships. San Toma (vaporetto station), Campiello Zen 2581 (street) ALISON BING

CAMPIELLO CA` ZEN

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 87.pg.
  •  
     
CARTE (Paper Crafts) Google map:

Paperwork never seemed such a good idea. After years of restoring ancient manuscripts and books, Rosanna Corro decided to put those skills to work making something entirely original, and she`s been on a roll ever since. This tiny shop is packed with must-have paper-and-clothbound purses in lagoon-ripple patterns; peacock-eye marbled paper panels that bring Venetian glamour to your living room walls; swirly opart jewellery boxes that outshine their contents; and marbled woodgrain albums and journals that will do justice to your Venice trip. San Toma (vaporetto station), Calle di Cristi 1731 (street) ALISON BING

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 87.pg.


DROGHERIA MASCARI (Food, Wine) Google map:

Food is the drug of choice at this historic spice merchant, where wares are still dispensed from banks of tiny wooden drawers and copper-topped jars. Window displays feature ziggurat-shaped piles of cayenne and leaning towers of star anise alongside biodynamic Veneto wines and estategrown olive oils. For an impressive selection of Italian wines starting at € 5.50, don`t miss the enoteca (wine bar) out the back. San Silvestro (vaporetto station), Ruga degli Spezieri 381 (street) ALISON BING 
 
DROGHERIA MASCARI  

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 87. - 88.pg.
  •  
     
FANNY (Leather Goods

Quit snickering about the name - when that Venice chill hits your extremities, you`ll be seriously glad you found this treasure trove of leather gloves. No need to sacrifice style for warmth here: check out the purple pair with tiny yellow buttons, or those cashmere-lined turquoise numbers. At these prices, splashy orange wrist-strap clutches and spring green leather handbags are tempting add-on sales. San Toma (vaporetto station), Calle dei Saoneri 2723 (street) ALISON BING

FANNY 


  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 88.pg.

GILBERTO PENZO (Model Boats) Google map:

Yes, you actually can take a gondola home in your pocket. Anyone fascinated by the models at the Museo Storico Navale will go wild here amid handmade wooden models of all kinds of Venetian boats, including some that are seaworthy (or, at least, bathworthy). For crafty types, Signore Penzo creates kits so you can have a crack at it yourself. San Toma (vaporetto station), Calle 2 dei Saoneri 2681 (street) ALISON BING 

GILBERTO PENZO 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 88.pg.
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HIBISCUS (Fashion) Google map:

Caught in Venice without a stitch to wear to a Biennale opening? You can either hope for a fairy godmother or head straight to Hibiscus. Venice`s creative crossroads style is built here piece by distinctive piece: a flowing Italian dress ruched at the bottom for impact, a Japanese jacket with inbuilt flaps in water-resistant canvas, and a locally made ceramic-disc necklace. San Silvestro (vaporetto station), Ruga Rialto 1060 (street) ALISON BING 

HIBISCUS 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 88.pg.
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I VETRI A LUME DI AMADI (Glass) Google map:

Glass menageries don`t get more fascinating than the one created before your eyes by Signore Amadi. Sea anemones with glowing pink-tipped tentacles and fierce little glass crabs waving their claws are just the beginning of the wonders here: check out the medicine cabinet display of eerily lifelike glass mosquitoes, balancing on spindly legs the width of a hair. The remarkable blue glass horses look like Picasso drawings in three dimensions, and the glass beans and spring onions may leave you craving vegetables for lunch. San Silvestro (vaporetto station), Calle Saoneri 2747 (street) ALISON BING

I VETRI A LUME DI AMADI

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 89.pg.
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IL BAULE BLU (Antiques, Toys) Google map:

On recent inspection, this curiosity cabinet of elusive treasures included antique Steiff teddy bears, vintage Murano murrine (glass beads), a pale pink silk Jil Sander suit and a cigar box of Bakelite buttons. If travel has proved tough on your kid`s favourite toy, first aid and kind words will be administered at the in-house teddy hospital. San Toma (vaporetto station), San Toma 2915a (street) ALISON BING

Antiques

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 89.pg.
  •  
     
IL GUFO ARTIGIANO (Leather Goods

Venice pictures demand a suitable album, and here you can have your pick of leather ones embossed by hand in glowing colours made with vegetable dyes. The swirling designs - which are also embossed onto journals, handbags and wallets - come from ironwork on Venetian windows, but are combined with abstract modern flair. Rialto (vaporetto station), Ruga del Speziali 299 (street) ALISON BING

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 89.pg.


LA BOTTEGA DI GIO (Jewellery)

The glass necklaces in the shops not quite your style? Make your own with genuine Murano glass beads and your choice of coloured wire, silk thread or leather cord at this DIY jewellery shop. Lampwork beads begin at € 1, and one or two may be all you need for a highly original Venice souvenir. San Toma (vaporetto station), Fondamenta dei Frari 2559a (street) ALISON BING

LA BOTTEGA DI GIO 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 89.pg.
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MILLE E UNA NOTA (Musical Instruments) Google map:

The same thought occurs to almost everyone after hearing Interpreti Veneziani: is it too late to take up an instrument? The easiest option would be the harmonica, and Mille e Una Note has an impressive range of vintage and modern ones from the Italian Alps and Switzerland. But, if you`re feeling very ambitious, you can pick up some Albinion sheet music and a lute here too. San Toma (vaporetto station), Calle di Mezzo 1235 (street) ALISON BING

MILLE E UNA NOTA 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 89. - 90.pg.
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SABBIE E NEBBIE (Gifts, Homewares

The latest East-West trade-route trends begin here, with Japanese-inspired Rina Menardi ceramics, woven opera wraps made in India and handmade books from Bologna created with Japanese paper-marbling techniques. San Toma (vaporetto station), Calle dei Nomboli 2768a (street) ALISON BING

SABBIE E NEBBIE


  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 90.pg.

SERENA VIANELO (Fashion) Google map:

Opulent Como silks and minute finishings set these timeless Venetian designs apart from the faddish crowd. Two-tone silk handbags apply Tiepolo colours schemes in sky blues and golds, while a silk jacket evokes a walk through Venice, with gossamer green tones and aubergine architectural details. San Toma (vaporetto station), Campo San Aponal 1226 (square) ALISON BING

SERENA VIANELO 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 90.pg.
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VIZIO VIRTU (Food) Google map:

Work your way through Venice`s most decadent vices and tasty virtues at this extraordinary chocolate shop. As if the hot-chocolate fountain weren`t enough of a Willy Wonka-esque attraction, the filled chocolates here come in a five-course meal of flavours: blueberry and violet, barolo wine, redcurrant and basil, balsamic vinegar, and `Freud` (which tastes like a cigar, naturally). San Toma (vaporetto station), Calle de Campaniel 2829a (street) ALISON BING

VIZIO VIRTU

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 91.pg.
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ZAZU (Fashion) Google map:

Be the fashion world`s Ms Marco Polo with your Italian-designed tapestry bags, one-of-a-kind dresses from Barcelona and Japanese wrap tops. Prices are above sportswear but below couture, and the sale rack in the back usually has great pieces for € 50 to € 100. San Toma (vaporetto station), Calle dei Saoneri 2750 (street) ALISON BING

ZAZU 
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 91.pg.
  •  
     
TREASURE HUNTS


You might not be able to find St. Mark`s missing kneecap inside the Basilica di San Marco or the Bellini that was whisked off the walls at Madonna dell`Orto in 1993, but other treasures await discovery in Venice.
Sunny summer weekends bring the mercato delle pulci (flea market) to the Campo Santa Margherita, along with the occasional Medecins Sans Frontieres jumble sale, organised by two charming Venetian brothers who decided that retirement is boring, and the world needs all the help it can get. At these markets you`ll spot antique Murano stemware, tiny copper pots in which you could cook cicheti (Venetian tapas) for dolls, and vintage Italian fashion magazines that have been hoarded in Venetian attics for decades.
Bochaleri in Campo, the annual ceramics market, covers styles and eras ranging from classic Renaissance portrait plates to the latest raku (a style of Japanese pottery) pieces. (Campo San Maurizio, San Marco and in last weekend of May on Santa Maria del Giglio).

VENICE
The Mercantino dei Miracoli, 1st weekend every month; which takes place either in Campo Santa Maria Nova or Via Garibaldi, and Mercantino dell`Antiquario, last weekend of every month on Campo San Maurizio or Santa Maria del Giglio sell antique ceramics, estate jewellery, tempestuous sescapes, Fellini-esque vintage sunglasses and bric-a-brac at prices that approach those of Sotheby`s. Still, the scene is more raucously colourful than you`ll find at auction houses and, honestly, where else are you going to buy a gondola prow? ALISON BING

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 114.pg.




SHOPPING IN SANTA CROCE:


CARTAVENEZIA (Paper Crafts) Google map:


Paper is really put through the wringer here - but instead of marbling it, as has been the custom in Venice for about 150 years, CartaVenezia embosses and sculpts its handmade cotton paper. Ancient techniques meet modern industrial chic in the striped raw-edged bowls and lampshades, moulded-paper jewellery embellished with steel, and abstract friezes that demand prime placement in urban lofts. San Stae (vaporetto station), Calle Lunga 2125 (street) ALISON BING

CARTAVENEZIA 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Santa Croce. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 103.pg.
EL CANAPON (Fashion, Gifts) Google map:

Alternative culture pops up in the weirdest places in Venice, and El Canapon is exhibit A. Satisfy munchies across the street at the gelateria, then shop here for hemp clothing that`s actually stylish, and for psychedelically swirled shoulder bags that are just right for DJs transporting trip-hop albums to a gig. Staff will gladly fill you in on upcoming shows and protests. San Stae (vaporetto station), Salizada de San Stae 1906 (street) ALISON BING

Fashion & Gifts

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Santa Croce. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 103.pg.


MAREDICARTA (Books, Boating Aids) Google map:

Sailors and armchair seafarers will geek out with utter glee at this store, which is packed with every map and DIY aid you could possibly need for lagoon exploration,boat upkeep and spotting local sealife. If you`re considering rowing lessons or a boat purchase - and who doesn`t after a few days on the lagoon? - stop here first and get informed; you can also pick up a schedule of boating classes offered through the store. Ferrovia (vaporetto station), Fondamenta dei Tolentini 222 (street) ALISON BING

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Santa Croce. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 103.pg.


PENNY LANE VINTAGE (Fashion, Sustainable Shopping)

If oversized Italian 1960s shades are more your style than Carnevale masks, Penny Lane has you covered. Inspiration comes equally from vintage Venice and swinging `60s London, from the Yellow Submarine decor and Ben Sherman shirts to mod yellow macs with white piping and skintight nautical striped sweaters. Vintage-inspired new clothing is displayed up front, but the back area has the major vintage steals - € 10 for that mac and € 5 for a striped men`s sweater circa 1970. Ferrovia (vaporetto station), Salizada San Pantalon (street) ALISON BING

PENNY LANE VINTAGE 

 
SHOPING IN DORSODURO:


MARINA E SUSANA SENT  (Glass, Jewellery
) Google map:

Megaphones are no longer necessary to stand out in a crowd, thanks to this whip-smart statement jewellery by pioneering glass designers Marina and Susanna Sent. Museum shop throughout Venice feature the sisters` signature `soap` necklaces: large, clear bubbles of thin yet surprisingly sturdy glass that bring a sense of humour to boardrooms and first dates. Glass is paired with unexpected materials in dramatic red-paper necklaces with oversized red-glass centrepieces, while an asymmetrical black leather collar is decorated with dollops of glass that look like teaspoons of paprika and saffron. Accademia (vaporetto station), Campo San Vio 669 (street)  ALISON BING

MARINA E SUSANA SENT

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 117. - 118.pg. 
  
MARINA SENT
Architect turned pioneering glass designer at Marina e Susanna Sent
Shattering the glass ceiling. My family have been glass designers in Murano for generations. But back in the `80s, glass-blowing was a profession dominated by men, and my background was in architecture. So when my sister and I began working in glass, it was just for fun, to see what we could do. Glass jewellery wasn`t part of the family tradition, and we wanted to make something new. 
Spicing it up. Anyone interested in glass should visit the Museo del Vetro, and explore Murano to look inside laboratories and hear the furnaces. But design inspiration is everywhere in Venice: lately I`ve been inspired by spices, the piles of paprika and cinnamon at the Rialto markets.
Angels in the architecture. As medieval artisans paid for the capitals along the Ducal Palace, we financed the restoration of the statue of Virtue on the side of the building - it`s our honour to continue the artisans` tradition un the heart of Venice. ALISON BING

MARINA E SUSANA SENT

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 116.pg. 


ANTICHITA TERESA BALLARIN (Antiques)


Fabulous finds in styles ranging from rococo to rock and roll prove Venice`s fashion heyday didn`t end with baroque. Antique vases and paintings make fitting souvenirs, but 20th-century pieces are the real scores: futurist Bakelite rings, the odd Scarpa lamp, a rare ceramic vase by Gio Ponti and an op-art ladybird brooch, all for about what you`d pay for derivative works by modern designers. Ca` Rezzonico (vaporetto station), Calle delle Botteghe 3184 (street) ALISON BING

Antiques

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 115.pg. 
 
AQUA ALTRA (Gifts, Sustainable Shopping

Venice has learned a thing or two about trading nicely with others since the days when it controlled maritime trade - hence this fair-trade boutique. Italian taste is matched with global conscience in single-origin chocolate from Sierra Leone cooperatives, footballs mada by a Pakistani cooperative, and stuffed African-fabric alligators that support artisans in Kenya. Ca` Rezzonico (vaporetto station), Campo Santa Margherita 2898 (square) ALISON BING

Gifts, Sustainable Shopping

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 115.pg.


GUALTI (Jewellery) Google map:

Either a shooting star just landed on your shoulder, or you`ve been to Gualti. Iridescent orange glass bursts from clear resin stems on an interstellar brooch, while metallic pink fused Lucite cascades from an invisible collar like fireworks. Like light displays on the lagoon, these movable pieces stir the imagination. Gualti doesn`t like to repeat himself, but his prices (starting at € 70) are less that you`d expect for one-off designs. Ca` Rezzonico (vaporetto station), Rio Tera Canal 3111 (street) ALISON BING

GUALTI 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 115.pg.

IL PAVONE (Paper Crafts) Google map:

Your baccala mantecato (mashed cod prepared in garlic and parsley) is bound to come out better when the recipe is captured in a handmade book stamped with Gothic architectural patterns. Il Pavone`s recipe books, travel journals and day planners are printed with traces of metallic pigments, but don`t just judge them by their shimmering covers. Inside, the books are well organised, with tabs for meal planning, headings to track your favourite sights and spots to note upcoming birthdays. Accademia (vaporetto station), Calle della Chiesa 721 (street) ALISON BING

Paper Crafts

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 117.pg.


L`ANGELO DEL PASSATO (Antiques

Turn left off baroque, head straight into modern, and you`ll end up at this corner antique shop. Displays are frighteningly fragile, ranging from time-tarnished baroque mirrors with inset candelabra to mod swirled-colour water glasses. The best finds are oddities from the 1920s to 1970s, including dramatic deco pitchers, and smoked-glass lamps that set a bachelor-pad mood. Ca` Rezzonico (vaporetto station), Campiello dei Squellini 3276 (street) ALISON BING

Antiques

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 117.pg.


LIBRERIA DEL CAMPO (Books)

Discounted books and unusual coffe-table tomes make this a perennial favourite with the student crowd. There are some English-language titles from international publishers such as Taschen, plus splashy Italian art books from the likes of Rizzoli. Ca` Rezzonico (vaporetto station), Campo Santa Margherita 2943 (square) ALISON BING 

LIBRERIA 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 117.pg.

MADERA (Gifts, Homewares) Google map:

Frying pans look like clocks, spoons become tongues, and wooden salad bowls curl into waves: at Madera, household objects are transformed by elemental materials and organic shapes. Most pieces are by owner-designer Francesca Meratti and other Italian designers, with some Scandinavian and Japanese influences; prices start below € 70 for steel-and-pearl rings and free-form wooden spoons. Ca` Rezzonico (vaporetto station), Campo San Barnaba 2762 (street) ALISON BING

MADERA 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 117.pg.

PASTOR (Woodcarving) Google map:

The forcola (forked tongue of wood where the gondola oar rests) for a gondola is hand carved from acacia and hard oak, and each forcola must hold up under pressure and express the style of its owner. Sounds like a job for Savero Pastor, who makes forcole that twist without losing their elegant balance - just like the most experienced gondolieri. Mick Jagger had his forcola made to measure here, but you can buy ready-made smaller forcole to display as sculpture. Salute (vaporetto station), Fondamenta Soranzo della Fornace 341 (street) ALISON BING

Woodcarving
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 118.pg.



SHOPING IN GIUDECCA:


FORTUNY TESSUTI ARTISTICI (Homewares, Textiles) Google map:

At this design showroom, discover the subtly printed, elegantly draped silken fabrics that caused Marcel Proust to wax nostalgic. Fabrication methods have been jealously guarded for almost 100 years, and have yielded over 260 textile designs. Redentore (vaporetto station), Fondamenta San Biagio 805 (street) ALISON BING
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Giudecca. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 128.pg.




SHOPPING IN MURANO:


CRIDI (Glass)

Rings are the thing at CriDi, where the owners - a couple who are both Murano glass designers - have packed the shelves with handmade, portable gift possibilities in the € 15 to € 75 range. Most jewellery pieces here are created using lampwork techniques, where glass rods are carefully fused together with a hand-held blowtorch into patterns that range from starbursts to psychedelic swirls. Check out the chic cold-worked rings, which are made from glass that has been carefully sculpted after it has cooled. Colonna (vaporetto station), Fondamenta dei Vetrai 116 (street) ALISON BING

Glass

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - The Lagoon. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 145.pg.

NASONMORETTI (Glass) Google map:

Unexpected asymmetrical shapes and striking two-colour combinations have been the trademark of these modernist masters since the 1950s; today NasonMoretti`s third-generation glass designers are layering heavy crystal over coloured glass to create vases that look like pure liquid colour trapped in ice. Prices start at a surprisingly reasonable € 31 for signed hand-blown drinking glasses, but with growing interest from museums in the US, don`t expect the deals to last forever. Colonna (vaporetto station), Fondamenta Manin 52 (street) ALISON BING

NASONMORETTI 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - The Lagoon. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 145.pg.

RAGAZZI & CO (Glass) 

A Klimt painting melted into a plate, a tiny lagoon trapped under glass, ink spilled onto a polka-dot glass vase... such leaps of the imagination are the speciality of this Murano glass designer. The signature bullseye design here is a clever abstraction of traditional Muranese millefiori (thousand-flower) patterns, with bullseyes clustering by the hundreds on tiny oval plates and square steel-topped key rings. Starting at € 38, prices are reasonable for the work. Museo (vaporetto station), Ramo di Mula 16 (street) ALISON BING  

Glass


  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - The Lagoon. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 145.pg.
  

 
                     DRINK IN VENICE


DRINK IN SAN MARCO


B BAR (Lounge) Google map:


Pose as glitterati at your booth in the gold-mosaic B Bar, where top-shelf cocktails are thoughtfully served with bar nibbles and the piano player plays softly so as not to upstage VIP guests such as yourself. There`s an entire menu of creative twists on the classic Venetian spritz (prosecco - based cocktail), including the bitter-sweet Rialto, with prosecco, gin and a splash of grenadine. San Marco, Vallaresso (vaporetto station),  Campo San Moise 1459 (square) ALISON BING 

B BAR 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 54.pg.


BACARO (Lounge) Google map:

Bacaro has good looks and smarts too: the bar is a shimmering mosaic oval that reflects well on you, and the company you`ll keep is terribly clever, especially once the crowd moves here after literary events at Mondadori, next door. San Marco, Vallaresso (vaporetto station), Salizada San Moise 1345 (street) ALISON BING

BACARO 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 54.pg.
 
BAR ALL`ANGOLO (Cafe-Bar)
 
Picture your neighbourhood joint, only with a glass case stuffed with tempting tramezzini (sandwiches), chic orange-velvet booths, and an ideal position for people-watching on a buzzing, lively piazza. Stick around for a spritz at 6:30pm, when the local crowd arrives en masse. Accademia (vaporetto station),  Campo Santo Stefano 3463 (square) ALISON BING

BAR ALL`ANGOLO 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 55.pg.
 
HARRY`S BAR (Lounge) Google map:


Since almost every major 20th-century American talent has imbibed here - Charlie Chaplin, Ernest Hemingway, Truman Capote, Orson Welles - there`s a theory that genius is stirred into these cocktails. Sounds like a good excuse for a drink. Yes, the € 18 peach-and-prosecco Bellinis invented here are that good, and yes, meals here are among the most expensive in Venice and hence Europe (though in light of the American mortgage crisis, Harry`s is offering 20 % off the bill to US patrons). But the surprise is how down to earth the whole operation is, with simple bistro chairs, small tables set close together, and straightforward service with zero affectation. Harry`s Bar is now an empire, with locations in London and Hong Kong, and packaged pasta sold under the Cipriani label, but there`s no substitute for the original. San Marco, Vallaresso (vaporetto),  Calle Vallaresso 1323 (street)  ALISON BING
 

 
Harry's Bar 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 55.pg.


TORINO@NOTTE (Caffe-Bar) Google map:

Freeform, eclectic and loud, Torino adds an element of the unexpected to postdinner drinks in otherwise staid San Marco. On any given night you can enjoy a € 2 to € 4 drink with music provided by a live band, a spontaneous college-student singalong or a collection of scratchy reggae records played by a friend of the bartender. Rialto (vaporetto),  Campo San Luca 4592 (square) ALISON BING

TORINO@NOTTE

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 55.pg.
  
VINO VINO (Wine Bar) Google map:


Navigate the vast selection of wines by the glass with your server`s help, or just ask your neighbours what they`re having - it`s that kind of place. There`s an increasingly expansive menu of Venetian classics such as octopus salad and sarde in saor (sardines in an onion marinade) and fancier fare involving guinea fowl and suckling pig, but it`s the selection of 300 wines that have made this place an institution for visitors and Venetians alike. Santa Maria del Giglio (vaporetto),  Calle della Veste 2007a (street) ALISON BING

VINO VINO

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 55.pg.
 
PARADISO (Cafe-Bar) Google map:


At Paradiso, curators woo shy artists on mod couches and star architects hold court under sun umbrellas, even between Biennales. The scene is fuelled by a steady stream of coffee and cocktails that cost less than you`d expect given the designer chairs, waterfront location and lack of competition - this is the only cafe within reach of anyone in stilettos at the Biennale. Biennale (vaporetto station), Giardini Pubblici 1260 (street) ALISON BING

PARADISO
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 69.pg.


DRINK IN CASTELLO


FLORIAN ARTE CAFFE (Cafe-Bar) Google map:

Espresso with a side of architectural inspiration, please. Rainy days are right for hot chocolate inside Mario Botta`s snug modernist cafe, with its white walls framed in black, polished-concrete floors and a harmonious, repeating-rectangle theme. Outside, Carlo Scarpa`s clever Middle East-inspired concrete irrigation channels add industrial-Islamic cool to your spritz (prosecco-based cocktail) in the sunny garden. San Zaccaria (vaporetto station), Fondazione Querini Stampalia, Ponte Querini 5252 (street) ALISON BING 

FAMOUSE  VENICE CANAL

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 68. - 69.pg.


OBILLOK (Cafe-Bar) Google map:

Devastatingly handsome and artfully Venetian, this cafe-bar has oversized baroque flourishes stamped on the walls, Titian red chairs and a sculpted-brass bar where beer is served in leaning glasses. Looks aside, the macchiatos here are among Venice`s best, and the mean spritz and sweet jazz pull in the crowds at happy hour. Ospedale (vaporetto station), Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo 6331 (square) ALISON BING

OBILLOK

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 69.pg.
  •  
     
TAVERNA L`OLANDESE VOLANTE (Pub) Google map:

Chaos reigns at the Flying Dutchman, where study-abroad students mingle easily and laugh loudly with local eccentrics over cheap beer. On summer nights, expect to go home happily hoarse. Rialto (vaporetto station), Salizada San Lio 5658 (street) ALISON BING

TAVERNA L`OLANDESE VOLANTE
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 69.pg.


DRINK IN CANNAREGIO


OSTERIA AGLI ORMESINI (Pub) Google map:

While the rest of the city is awash in wine, beer is the drink of choice here, with 120 mostly foreign brews to choose from. The scene inevitably spills into the street, especially when students descend for panini - but try to keep it down to a dull roar, or the neighbours and the management get testy. Madonna dell`Orto (vaporetto station), Fondamenta degli Ormesini 2710 (street) ALISON BING

 Pub
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Cannaregio. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 80.pg.


DRINK IN SAN POLO


SACRO E PROFANO (Wine Bar) Google map:


Musicians, artists, esoteric philosophers and the odd nutter make the crowd at this hideaway under the Rialto exceptionally fun to be around - you never know who`s going to burst out into a rhyme or rant next. Once you`re drawn into conversation, you`ll wind up settling in for a generous plate of pasta, witnessing an impromptu poetry recital and getting invited along to a ska show. Rialto (vaporetto station), Ramo Terzo del Parangon 502 (street) ALISON BING

SACRO E PROFANO 
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Polo. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 96. - 97.pg.

 
DRINK IN SANTA CROCE 

LA RIVETTA (Pub)
 
Cabernet franc comes out of a hose and platters of hearty fare are passed around at this favourite bacaro (bar) of salty sailors and neighbourhood eccentrics. Go for mixed plates with thick slabs of salami, translucent sheets of pancetta and grilled veggies with crusty bread. You can sit canalside, or head inside to admire the decor of bicycle parts and dusty bottles of English gin that were drained before the war. Buy a round to bring down the house. Ferrovia (vaporetto station), Calle Sechera 637a (street) ALISON BING


LA RIVETTA  
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Santa Croce. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 107.pg.


DRINK IN DORSODURO


CAFFE NOIR (Cafe-Bar) Google map:

Morning espresso brings back the crowd that was here late last night, only a little the worse for wear. Architecture students, musicians and travellers converge for spritz (prosecco-based cocktails) in the calle (street), so the quickest way to start a conversation is to state any of the following: Calatrava is overrated, Albinoni is underrated, and spritz with Aperol is better than spritz with Campari. San Toma (vaporetto station), Campo San Barnaba 2852 (square) ALISON BING

CAFFE NOIR

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 121. - 122.pg.
  
CAFFE ROSSO (Cafe-Bar) Google map:

The red heart of Campo Santa Margherita is this cafe, affectionately nicknamed Rosso after its red front window. Sunny mornings are well spent at a piazza table, commiserating over newspaper headlines with your neighbours then laughing it off with a prosecco at lunch. Evening brings the student crowd for a spritz, with entertainment provided by the cast of characters at the bar. Ca` Rezzonico (vaporetto station), Campo Santa Margherita 2963 (square) ALISON BING 

CAFFE ROSSO 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 122.pg.
 
IMAGINA CAFE (Cafe-Bar) Google map:

Comfortable booths, work by emerging artists on the walls and a vast display of Aperol behind the bar all bring a creative, gay-friendly crowd that should probably start paying rent here. Sunny piazza seating is usually thronged with locals and their little dogs, both of whom enjoy being admired. Ca` Rezzonico (vaporetto station), Rio Tera Canal 3126 (street) ALISON BING

IMAGINA CAFE 

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 123.pg.
  
OSTERIA ALLA BIFORA (Wine Bar) Google map:

The staff aren`t exactly quick with that Ferrari red meat slicer behind the bar, so just sip that wine, soak in the ambience of this romantic Romanesque bar, and don`t count on your snacks to arrive any time soon. This place has a more mellow, enticing vibe than other places on the square, and strangers have been known to get cosy at the communal tables. Ca` Rezzonico (vaporetto station), Campo Santa Margherita 2930 (square) ALISON BING

OSTERIA ALLA BIFORA  

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 123.pg.
 
TEA ROOM BEATRICE (Tea House) Google map:

This tea house is an elegant alternative to bolting an espresso at a bar. Rainy days are good for iron pots of green tea and almond cake in the Japanese-themed tea room, while sunny days are for iced drinks and salty pistachios on the patio. Ca` Rezzonico (vaporetto station), Calle Lunga San Barnaba 2727a (street) ALISON BING

Tea House
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 123.pg.


DRINK ON LIDO


COLONY BAR (Lounge) Google map:

Celeb-spotting and cocktails on a historic Liberty-style verandah that`s elegantly secluded by maritime pines - ah, this is Lido living. Your drink tab will easily match your cabana rental for the day, but you`ll enjoy all the five-star perks - fawning service, top-shelf hooch, even lobby wi-fi access - without paying the Hotel des Bains room rate. Lido (vaporetto station), Hotel des Bains, Lungomare Guglielmo Marconi 17 (street) ALISON BING

LIDO
  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Lido. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 136.pg.

  
HANDS-ON VENICE

After you ogle your third Titian and 10th gondola, you may start to get ideas of your own. Technically you can`t touch a Titian, and it takes years to become a gondolier, but the traditions of painting and boating are perfectly within reach. Even if gondolas and frescoes won`t fit into your luggage, a model boat by Gilberto Penzo and paints from Arcobaleno might. Other souvenirs will pass even the toughest carry-on restrictions: an eye for colour developed at a printmaking workshop, an ear for baroque music discovered at a musical course, or a sense of balance lost and found the hard way through voga alla veneta (rowing standing up, Venetian style).


 
Gondolas

Inspiration is sprinkled across Venice, and it would be a shame to let it go to waste. Designing your own wine-tasting itinerary is easy: just connect the dots between the city`s enoteche (wine bars) and bacari. Designing your own Carnevale costume is harder, but not impossible, while a cooking class CLICK! will allow you to take Venetian happy hour home. If this city on the water has one standing lesson to offer, it`s that imagination makes anything possible.ALISON BING
 
Regata Storica 


BEST THINGS TO TRY:
  1. Capture Venice in moody aquatints at Bottega del Tintoretto
  2. Design your own Carnevale costume at Teatro Junghans
  3. Play a benefit concert with Friends of Venice Club
  4. Row across the Giudecca Canal with Maredicarta
  5. Learn mask-making secrets at Ca` Macana



BEST FOR DIY SUPPLIES:
  1. Arcobaleno for art
  2. Maredicarta for sailing
  3. Gilberto Penzo for toy boats
  4. Drogheria Mascari for cooking
  5. Rialto produce markets for picnics and still-life paintings

  • literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Snapshots - Hands-on Venice. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 163.pg.
 

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