DORSODURO & GIUDECCA (Hotels):
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DORSODURO
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| DORSODURO |
- Dorsoduro is named after a solid layer of toast on which this district was built, the name means ("strong spine "). The western part of the island Mendigola been inhabited for centuries before the 828 th emerged Rialto as a center of Venice . The settlement is then spread eastward, encompassing six islands.
- East of Accademia , Dorsoduro is a quiet and nice part of town with shady streets, peaceful canals and picturesque residences belonging to wealthy Venetians and foreigners. In the early 20th century it was popular among British expatriates who have attended the Anglican church on Campo San Vio . Among the attractive side of this area are the views of the lagoon - is near the eastern end of the Salute , and the Zattere on the island of Giudecca .
DORSODURO
- West of Accademia , sestiere was alive with traffic Campo Santa Margherita as the main attraction. Further west, older area around the church of San Nicolo dei Mendicoli used to be a neighborhood of fishermen and sailors.
- Dorsoduro is a district with several important art collections, the most prominent galleries are Accademia and the collection of Peggy Guggenheim with twentieth century art. Churches are also a rich treasury of paintings and sculptures: San Sebastiano has pictures of Paolo Veronese , the Scuola Grande dei Carmini and church Gesuati have ceilings painted by Giambattista Tiepolo .
- In other cities, arty neighbourhoods are gritty, marginal districts that are best appreciated by grunge bands and collage artists. But Dorsoduro claims the very heart of the city and, instead of gloomy backstreet galleries, it has palatial buildings along the Grand Canal: Ca` Rezzonico, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Gallerie dell`Acacademia. There`s far more glam than grit here, even in unlikely places.
- Paolo Veronese lavished his tiny neighbourhood church with masterpieces; Giambattista Tiepolo and Baldassare Longhena worked wonders on a convent that doubled as a hostel; and minimalist maestro Tadao Ando is set to complete the Punta della Dogana`s transformation from warehouse dock to contemporary-art showcase. But, somehow, this lavish attention hasn`t gone to Dorsoduro`s head.
DORSODURO
- The neighbourhood still convens nightly in Campo Santa Margherita for happy hour, queues up along the Zattere for gelato on sunny days, and haggles over the price of tomatoes at the produce barge alongside Campo San Barnaba. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Dorsoduro. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 108.pg.
DORSODURO`S HIGHLIGHTS
- Other museums may illuminate, but this onesparkles. This Longhena palace showcases 18th-century arts in music salons, boudoirs and even a pharmacy complete with medicinal scorpions. Several salons are crowned with ceilings by Tiepolo, who literally goes over the top with his sensuous beauty and shameless flattery. His Throne Room ceiling is a glimpse of heaven at the moment gorgeous Merit ascends to the Temple of Glory, clutching the Libro d`Oro (Golden Book), which contained the names of Venetian nobles - including the Rezzonico family, naturally.
CA`REZZONICO
- Other collecting highlights include Pietro Longhi`s socialite satires, Guercino`s dashing Philosopher and Emma Ciardi`s pointillist canal views. Don`t miss concerts by Venice`s Chamber Music Orchestra held in the ballroom. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 109.pg.
HOTELS NEAR CA`REZZONICO:
CHIESA DEI GESUATI
- If you`re not yet sold on baroque art, just look up. On ceiling panels completed between 1737 and 1739, Tiepolo uses convincing architectural perspectives and heavenly colours that seem to lift the roof right off the place to tell stories from the life of St. Dominic.
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| CHIESA DEI GESUATI |
- On the right side of the nave is the 1730 - 1733 Saints Peter and Thomas with Pope Pius V by fellow Venetian virtuoso of luminosity Sebastiano Ricci; it`s quite a contrast to Tintoretto`s adjacent 1565 Crucifixion, which glowers darkly in deep reds and greens. In this church, Venetian baroque puts the city`s dark plague days in the past, ushering the sunny Zattere indoors instead. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 109.pg.
HOTELS NEAR CHIESA DEI GESUATI:
CHIESA DI SAN SEBASTIAN
- Only in Venice could a modest neigbourhood church be covered with floor-to-ceiling Veronese masterpieces. Veronese`s horses rear over the frames of the coffered ceiling, his angels literally come out of the woodwork and even the organ doors are covered inside and out with vivid Veronese works.
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| CHIESA DI SAN SEBASTIAN |
- The only thing more colourful than his brushwork is the popular legend that claims Veronese found sanctuary here in 1555 when he fled murder accusations in Verona; as a result, he couldn`t do enough to thank the parish. This story casts a different light on Veronese`s Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, where the bound saint defiantly stares down his tormentors amid a local crowd of fashionable nobles, turbaned traders and, for comic relief, a frisky lapdog. ALISON BING
HOTELS NEAR CHIESA DI SAN SEBASTIAN:
- Survivors of Venice`s 1630 plague built Our Lady of Salvation atop at least 100 000 pylons as a monumental gesture of thanks, and Venetians still pray for health here at least once a year. Architectural scholars have noticed the similarity between Longhena`s unusual octagonal design, and both Graeco - Roman temples and Jewish cabbala diagrams; after the horrors of the plague, covering multiple religious traditions must`ve seemed like a wise health - insurance policy.
- The sacristy here holds Tintoretto`s surprisingly upbeat Wedding Feast of Cana, plus no fewer than 12 Titians, including St. Marco Enthroned (his earliest known work, from 1510) and a later St. Matthew that`s actually a self-portrait. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 112.pg.
HOTELS NEAR CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA DELLA SALUTE:
- A multiplicity of masterpieces await behind the serene walls of this former convent. All the superstars of Venetian art are well represented here: Titian`s red-hot sensuality, Tintoretto`s action-packed drama, Vittore Carpaccio`s gore-fests, Giovanni Bellini`s Holy Family bonding moments, Rosalba Carriera`s un-Botoxed portraits, and Veronese`s censored social commentary. Galleries are loosely organised by painter and time period; you`ll have to pace yourself so you`re not tempted to rush past Rooms 16 to 18, which are packed with remarkable portraits, Canaletto`s sweeping views of Venice, and Giorgione`s 1508 La Tempesta, an expressionist composition of blues and greens that was centuries ahead of its time. ALISON BING
GALLERIE DELL`ACCADEMIA
HOTELS NEAR GALLERIE DELL`ACCADEMIA:
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 113.pg.
HOTELS NEAR GALLERIE DELL`ACCADEMIA:
PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION
- The possessor of a fortune after she lost her father on the Titanic, Peggy Guggenheim befriended dadaist and dodged Nazis while amassing avant-garde works by 200 modern artists. Peggy`s palatial home is a now a modernist shrine highlighting Italian futurism, surrealist painting, and key works by ground-breaking expressionists Wassily Kandinsky, her ex-husband Max Ernst and Jackson Pollock (one of Peggy`s many rumoured lovers).
PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION
- Since Peggy didn`t collect for prestige, her art collection also features wonderful folk art and lesser-known artists, plus comparatively minor works by Pablo Picasso, Piet Mondrian and Salvador Dali. Rather than following a favourite medium or trend, Peggy collected according to her own modernist ideals, and her sensibilities can be glimpsed throughout these galleries. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 113.pg.
HOTELS NEAR PEGGY GUGGENHEIM:
- The steep wooden hump over the Grand Canal has put Accademia-bound tourists through their paces since 1930. The timber structure was meant to be a temporary replacement for a 19th century metal bridge, but the craftsman-ship was too sturdy and the views from the top far too thrilling to even think of scrapping it. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 113.pg.
PUNTA DELLA DOGANA
- Finally Venice can release the breath it`s been holding since Francois Pinault announced that Tadao Ando would be transforming this block of warehouses into Venice`s newest monument to contemporary art. Barring some twist of Fortune - the weather vane atop Punta Dogana, that is - Pinault`s art collection will be installed in 2009 in a modernised structure that preserves the character of the original customs houses. ALISON BING
PUNTA DELLA DOGANA
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 114.pg.
SCUOLA GRANDE DEI CARMINI
- Eighteenth-century backpackers must have thought they`d died and gone to heaven at the Scuola Grande dei Carmini - up the most gorgeous staircase in Venice, to the right past Tiepolo`s nine-panel ceiling of a resplendent Virgin in Glory, and through heavy doors was the lavish boiserie (carved timber) hostel where Carmelite nuns sheltered wayfarers. Cots are, sadly, no longer available in this jewel-box building, but the Venice Opera sometimes stages performances here. ALISON BING
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| SCUOLA GRANDE DEI CARMINI |
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 114. - 115.pg.
HOTELS NEAR SCUOLA GRANDE DEI CARMINI:
SQUERO DI SAN TROVASO
- When it`s time for a tune up, gondolieri head to the squero (gondola workshop). The wood cabin on the corner of the Rio di San Trovaso may look like a misplaced ski chalet, but it`s actually part of one of the city`s three working squeri. From the right bank, you can see refinished gondolas drying in the yard, and wave at Cristina della Toffola in her bragosso (Venetian barge). ALISON BING
SQUERO DI SAN TROVASO
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - San Marco. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 115.pg.
HOTELS NEAR SQUERO DI SAN TROVASO:
GIUDECCA
- Architecture binges have brought visitors to this corner of the lagoon for centuries, and no wonder - have you seen the Palladios? But this garden getaway for Venice`s elite became the city`s industrial outpost in the 19th century, resulting in an industrial sprawl of factories and apartment blocks.
- Giudecca earns street cred for being affordable and rough around the edges - and, like most city neighbourhoods that used to be industrial and iffy, it has recently become extremely cool. Defunct factories and waterfront warehouses have been converted to galleries, affordable lofts and a theatre, and although there`s still a women`s prison here, it`s near a new luxe spa and a Harry`s Bar offshoot.
- So, hop on the vaporetto (city ferry) to Giudecca now, while the air is electric with creative possibilty and prices are still artist-friendly. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Giudecca. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 124.pg.
IL REDENTORE
- The Black Death inspired this buoyant white church - started by Palladio in 1577 and finished by Antonio da Ponte in 1592 - which was commissioned in gratitude for the city`s survival. There are some appealingly garish paintings by Gerolamo Bassano that look like black velvet, and a characteristically stormy Ascension by Tintoretto and his school, but the most memorable work here is often overlooked: Paolo Piazza`s 1619 Gratitude of Venice for Liberation from the Plague. Piazza shows the city held aloft by angels, using sombre grey tones and simple outlines to capture plague survivors` gratitude and guilt in a way that`s strikingly modern. ALISON BING
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| IL REDENTORE |
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Giudecca. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 128.pg.
HOTEL NEAR IL REDENTORE:
PALLADIO: LOOKING GOOD AT 500
- Before virtually every pillared bank and cupola-capped manor in the British Empire modelled itself on his designs, Andrea Palladio (1508 - 1580) created churches and villas of surpassing lightnes and strenght in his native Veneto. Palladian facades across the Veneto were scrubbed until gleaming for the 500th anniversary of his birth in 2008, so now is the prime time to see his signature white marble edifices in all their near-blinding glory.
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| ANDREA PALLADIO |
- While romantics may be content to contemplate the gleaming facades of Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore (opposite) or Il Redentore from across the canal, architecture aficionados will want to get up close to appreciate the play of light and shade in multifaceted buildings, and step inside to see how vaulting, roof trusses and high windows create billowing, cloudlike ceilings.
- Once you`re inside the buildings, John Ruskin`s sniffy 19th-century denunciations of Palladio as a wannabe Roman architect seem hard to fathom. In these generous halls, the soaring uplift of Gothic architecture and the rational geometry of the Renaissance mingle seamlessly. Note the scrolled-paper capitals and the spare, clean surfaces; in them, you`ll see precocious hints of rococo and even the historically minded high modernism of Le Corbusier and Tadao Ando. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Giudecca. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 127.pg.
FONDAZIONE GIORGIO CINI
- Before American heiresses and French billionaires got involved, culture in Venice was quietly being saved by Vittorio Cini. After escaping the Dachau concentration camp with his son Giorgio, he returned to Venice on a mission to save the Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore, which in 1949 was a ramshackle mess. His foundation bought and converted the island into a centre for arts and maritime culture, and recently converted a defunct nautical academy into a shipshape gallery space. Recent exhibition highlights include a Giuseppe Santomaso retrospective, which included Letters to Palladio, a series of abstract paintings of envelopes with Palladian proportions. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Giudecca. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 127.pg.
GIUDECCA 795
- Do you follow the Titian colourists or do you go with the Tintoretto flow? Either way, Giudecca 795 has you in mind. It features contemporary artists with a strong sense of colour and dynamic line; look for Vito Campanelli`s high-impact all-red paintings and Guitamachi`s graphic train-track cityscapes. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Giudecca. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009., 127.pg.
HOTELS ON GIUDECCA:
- Residenza Grandi Vedute (GIUDECCA) (official hotel website) view a Google map: tripadvisor:
- Hilton Molino Stucky Venice Hotel(GIUDECCA) (official hotel website) view a Google map: tripadvisor:
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