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- The largest district in the city, Castello, stretches from San Marco and Cannaregio to the west to the modern fourth Sant 'Elena in the east. It was named after the fortress from the 8th century, which once stood where today's San Pietro, an island that is course centuries religious center of town. The local church was the center of the diocese of 9 century and the cathedral city of 1451 th. to 1807 th .
- Industrial center Castello was Arsenale, where the shipyards were made strong Venetian fleet of warships. The most popular and powerful part of the trade Castella 's promenade Riva degli Schiavoni. Behind the coast is quite piecfoul area with narrow streets, elegantly faded palaces and beautiful churches, including the magnificent Santi Giovanni e Paolo.
- Sailors, saint and modern artists have made Castello what it is today: a waterfront home to earthy osterie (restaurants - bars), ethereal icons and the show - stopper that is the Biennale. Churches are gilt to the hilt, historic four - star hotels sprawl along the Grand Canal waterfront, and the Biennale pavilions are showpieces of modern architecture.
- Venice`s Armenian and Greek communities once lived in these winding lanes alongside Turkish and Syrian merchants, bringing to the neigbourhood a cosmopolitan flair that`s still noticeable in local restaurants, as well as even more glittering icons.
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| MUSEO STORICO NAVALE |
- But Castello has proven that it`s possible to be refined in the extreme without losing that vital roughness around the edges: some 5000 shipbuilders once worked here in the Arsenale, building the fleet that extended Venice`s empire to Constantinopole. Traces of those glory days can be found in the Museo Storico Navale and in the odd bawdy joke at happy hour. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 58.pg.
CASTELLO `S HIGHLIGHTS
BIENNALE PAVILIONS
- In between the Art Biennale (in odd - numbered years) and the architecture showcase (in even years), the public gardens here are for lovers. Gothically romantic vines creep up to cover the Palladian-style British Pavilion, and picknickers canoodle between the mosaic-detailed secessionist-style Austro-Hungarian Pavilion and the disappointingly derivative US Pavilion.
- Pavilions cover just about every major modernist movement and construction material, from the `70s ski-lodge styling of the timber Canadian building to the metal-clad Korean Pavilion in a converted electrical plant.
- James Stirling`s 1991 Book Pavilion is more interesting from the inside, Italy`s blindingly white Fascist-era pavilion is grandiose and Peter Cox`s 1988 Australian Pavilion (intended to be temporary) looks like a mobile home - but it`s hard to compete with the hometown favourite Carlo Scarpa`s clever raw-concerte-and-glass Venezuelan Pavilion from 1954, which still looks avant-garde. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 59.pg.
FONDAZIONE QUERINI STAMPALIA
- Modern meetss baroque in this 16th-century palazzo (palace or mansion), which was updated by Carlo Scarpa in the 1940s, and had a Mario Botta - designed cafe and bookshop added in the 1990s. The middle floors preserve the graces of bygone centuries, with porcelain displays on silk - clad walls and an entire Giovanni Bellini room; downstairs, Scarpa`s Islamic - inspired water channels run through the ground floor and into the courtyard fountain.
- Top-floor modern-art shows are hit-and-miss, but coffe in Scarpa`s garden is a must. Stick around on Friday and Saturday for concerts held in the baroque music room. ALISON BING
Carlo Scarpa - A Profile (documentary)
HOTELS NEAR FONDAZIONE QUERINI STAMPALIA:- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 59.pg.
MUSEO DELLE ICONE
MUSEO STORICO NAVALE
Venezia, Museo Storico Navale - The Great Italian Navy
HOTELS NEAR MUSEO STORICO NAVALE:
THE ORPHAN ORCHESTRAS OF VENICE
OSPEDALETTO
SAN ZACCARIA
SAN ZACCARIA
HOTELS NEAR SAN ZACCARIA:
HOTELS NEAR ZANIPOLO:
- Glowing colours and all-seeing eyes fill the gallery of the Museum of icons, a treasure trove of elegant Greek icons made in 14th- to 17th-century Italy. Especially impressive is the expressive San Giovanni Climaco, wich shows the saintly author of a Greek spiritual guide distracted from his work by visions of souls diving into hell. The building itself is a monument to the city`s religious tolerance: this seat of Venice`s Greek Orthodox community was built by Baldassare Longhena, Venice˙s officiale architect, and served as a hospital for the poor into the 20th century. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 59. - 62.pg.
MUSEO STORICO NAVALE
- The improbable tale of Venice`s seafaring empire and the city`s lingering fascination with boats unfolds in rambling fashion across four floors and 42 rooms of pains-takingly detailed boat models and fearsome weaponry - which was rarely used within Venice, but was kept on hand at the Arsenale, just in case. The fanciest boat is the model of the bucintoro (ducal barge), used in ceremonial occasions such as the Sposalizio del Mar (Wedding to the Sea). But Peggy Guggenheim`s gondola isn`t shabby either, and the ocean liners and WWII battleships are fascinating. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 62.pg.
HOTELS NEAR MUSEO STORICO NAVALE:
THE ORPHAN ORCHESTRAS OF VENICE
- Music was the salvation of orphans in Venice, and orphans came to the city`s rescue. Sounds like something out of Dickens, but it`s true.
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| DAUGHTERS OF VENICE |
- In the 16th to 18th centuries, circumstances conspired to produce an unprecedented number of Venetian orphans : on the one hand was the plague and snake-oil cures, which decimated the adult population; on the other was flourishing prostitution, scandalous masquerada parties at island nunneries, and the fashion among Venetian ladies to take a cicisbeo (young manservant) while their husbands were at sea.
- The state took on the care and musical training of the city`s orphan girls, who in turn earned their keep in orchestras and choirs that performed at balls and public functions. Venice`s glitterati turned out for these early black-tie fundraisers, with musical performances directed by such maestri as Vivaldi and Domenico Cimarosa, who was briefly the musical director of the Ospedaletto (below). Visiting dignitaries treated to orphan concerts were well advised to tip the performers: you never knew whose illegitimate daughter you might be insulting otherwise.
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| THE ORPHAN ORCHESTRAS OF VENICE |
- Venice`s latest attraction came not a moment too soon, as it helped establish Venice as the leisure-dass capital of Europe just as its trade economy was falling. Orphans no longer dominate Venetian orchestras, but you can still hear the baroque music they popularised. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 63.pg.
OSPEDALETTO
- So much for Rome`s attempt to limit Venice`s love affair with music: a musical theme runs right throught the 1664 Longhena - designed chapel and music room in this home for orphans and the infirm. The chapel is uplifting by design, with a trumpeting angel flitting overhead, and the mighty organ reflected on the ceiling to draw the eye upward. Jacopo Guarana painted the frescoes that cover the Sala da Musica, where female orphans performed in celebrated concerts. ALISON BING
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| OSPEDALETTO |
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 63.pg.
SAN ZACCARIA
- If these walls could talk, they`d tell tales of a former life as a convent for the daughters of Venice`s upper crust, who passed their time here in prayer, concerts and rather scandalous masked balls. The influence of this church is visible in its welth of art: a 12th-century Roman-Byzantine mosaic floor, the dazzling gilt polyptych in the Golden Chapel, Bellini`s melancholy enthroned Madonna, and Giambattista Tiepolo`s version of the flight into Egypt in a Venetian boat.
- Don`t miss Antonio Vivarini`s 1443 painting of St Sabina, who keeps her cool as angels buzz around her head like lagoon mosquitoes. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 63. - 64.pg.
HOTELS NEAR SAN ZACCARIA:
SOTOPORTEGO DEI PRETI
ZANIPOLO
ZANIPOLO
The Chapel of the Holy Rosary (in Zanipolo)
- Down the stepsand under the arch of this sotoportego (passageway), there`s a heart-shaped reddish stone the size of a hand. Legend has it that couples who touch it together will remain in love forever - but, if you`re not ready to commit just yet, it`s a nice private spot for a smooch. ALISON BING
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| SOTOPORTEGO DEI PRETI |
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 64.pg.
ZANIPOLO
- This generous Gothic church is big enough to house several masterpieces, 25 tombs of dogi (Venice`s leaders) by such notable artists as Nicolo Pisano and Tullio Lombardo, and examples of most major architectural styles to hit Venice since work began on the church in 1333.
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| SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO |
- The first chapel on the right holds Giambattista Lorenzetti`s baroque relief of Jesus the Navigator, with Jesus looking at the moon and searching the stars like a Venetian sea captain. Another wonderful work is Guido Reni`s San Giuseppe, showing Joseph exchanging tender, adoring looks with baby Jesus.
- Since the church is connected to Venice`s main hospital, the Ospedale Civile, one of the most popular shrines is the one to Venetian James Salomoni, patron of cancer patients, whose own wounds are said to have emitted a ´heavenly fragrance´ after his death. But the most spectacular piece is Paolo Veronese`s ceiling depicting the rosy Virgin being crowned by cherubs as she ascends a staircase, with angels flipping with the joy of it all. ALISON BING
- literature: Bing Alison. Venice Encounter: Sestieri - Castello. ISBN 9781741049978. London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN36005607983, 2009. 64.pg.
The Chapel of the Holy Rosary (in Zanipolo)
- The Chapel was built in 1582 in thanksgiving to Our Lady of the Rosary, devotion to whom was especially strong in Venice. The devotion was strengthened after the victory of Lepanto (7th October 1571), when, by desire of Pius V, the Dominicans erected Confraternities and schools dedicated to her. The works for the chapel were entrusted to Alessandro Vittoria, a native of Trent.
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| The Chapel of the Holy Rosary |
- It was an authentic jewel; a wonderful casket of numerous masterpieces that together formed an homogenous patrimony both as regards subject (the victory of Lepanto through the intercession of the Virgin of the Rosary) and figurative culture.
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| The Chapel of the Holy Rosary |
- During the night between the 15th and 16th August 1867 a fire destroyed the chapel, reducing to ashes the ceiling of gilded wood with paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, Palma il Giovane, Leonardo Corona and approximately 34 canvases by the same authors and by G. Francesco Bassano, Domenico Tintoretto, Giovanni Soens and others. The Martyrdom of St Peter by Tiziano and Our Lady with Saints by Giovanni Bellini were temporarily stored in the chapel for restoration purposes and these too were lost.
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| The Chapel of the Holy Rosary |
- In the avant-corps, the carved ceiling by Carlo Lorenzatti (1932) contains three masterpieces by Paolo Caliari, known as Veronese (1527 - 1588): the Adoration of the Shepherds, the Assumption and the Annunciation.
- On the end wall the Adoration of the Shepherds by Veronese.
- On the right wall: Jesus dead by Gian Battista Zelotti (+1578); Jesus meets Veronica, a work by Carlo Caliari; and St Michael defeats Lucifer by Bonifacio de`Pitati (+1533), a follower of Tiziano. On the left wall: Martyrdom of St Christina by Sante Peranda; Washing of the feet and Eucharistic Feast by Benedetto Caliari; St Dominic saves sailors inviting them to the prayer of the Rosary, by Alessandro Varottari, known a the Padovanino (+1650).
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| Episodes in the Life of Jesus and Mary (wooden boiserie) |
- Along the side walls, wooden boiserie carved by Giacomo Piazzeta (second half of 17th century) showing Episodes in the Life of Jesus and Mary, replace those by Brustolon, destroyed in the fire of 1867.
- In the presbytery, theceiling continues with other masterpieces by Veronese. In the centre, Adoration of the Wise Kings, dating to 1582; at the sides the four evangelists.
- The altar is the work of Girolamo Campagna. The Our Lady of the Rosary was rebuilt by Carlo Lorenzetti. On the base of the throne, three pairs of cherubs each hold a gilded oval with the head of Sibyls: Libyan, Cumaen, Agrippine and Hellespontine. On the spandrels four Prophets in bas-relief, by Campagna. The two candelabra are the work of Alessandro Vittoria.
- There are ten wonderful bas-reliefs dating to the 18th century in the base around the presbytery. Some of them were reconstructed after the fire.
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| Disputation of Jesus with the Doctors, by Gian Maria Morleiter |
- From the left: The Annunciation, by Giovanni Bonazza; Adoration of the Shepherds (dated 1700), by the same artist; Meeting of the Virgin with St Elisabeth, by Luigi and Carlo Tagliapietra; St Joseph`s dream, by Francesco Bonazza; The Child Mary in the Temple, by Giuseppe Torretto; Wedding of Mary and Joseph, by the same artist; Rest in Egypt, by Gian Maria Morleiter; Presentation of the Child Jesus in the Temple, by Luigi and Carlo Tagliapetra; Adoration of the Wise Men, by Giovanni Bonazza; Disputation of Jesus with the Doctors, by Gian Maria Morleiter. The wall decoration continues above with three Prophets and three Sybils in niches.
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| Giuseppe Torretto - Wedding of Mary and Joseph |
- From the right, Erythraean and Isaiah; Libyan and David; Delphic and Jeremiah; and six wonderful stucco panels: Visitation and Flight into Egypt, Presentation in the Temple and Wedding of Mary; Annunciation and Adoration of the shepherds. Both statues and panels are the work of Vittoria.
- The four stumps of statues behind the altar portray St Dominic, St Justina (by Alessandro Vittoria), St Thomas Aquinas and St Rosa of Lima (by Girolamo Campagna). On the end wall we see the Assumption, by Giuseppe Porta, known as Salviati.
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HOTELS ON RIVA DEGLI SCHIAVONI:
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